Adventures in Food
Farmers Market Conundrum—Where are the farmers?
Photo credit: Julia Manzerova
I’ve tried everything from peas to never-fail zucchini and so far that only thing I’ve been able to grow in abundance is mint—and I didn’t even plant that! Instead of pining over my lack of gardening skills, I’m investing my energy in finding the best farmers markets in my area. I’ve been surprised by what I’ve found.
The two closest farmers markets to my neighborhood include vendors that didn’t grow their products from seed—unless organic skincare products and gourmet popcorn have suddenly started sprouting up on trees somewhere in Colorado’s eastern plains. Fresh produce booths are outnumbered 2 to 1 at our nearby market, which also includes booths for pre-packaged steaks, bakeries, and more. The presence of non-farm goods has lead me to question whether the produce that is available is actually from local farms—and if so, whether the person selling them is affiliated with a farm at all.
I’m not the only one noticing that something doesn’t seem quite right at area farmers markets. Wall Street Journal writer Lauren Etter reported last week that some “real” farmers are being undersold at area markets by resellers. These resellers buy bulk produce at auctions for cut-rate prices and then pass them off as their own at markets. Farmers who are selling their own goods are feeling the pressure to drop their own prices to compete.
The national Farmers Market Coalition is now taking steps to define what can receive the “farmers market” label. Posting on the FMC website in January, Jeff Cole, chair of the Farmers Market Coalition ad hoc Definition Task Force and Executive Director of the Federation of Massachusetts Farmers Markets, wrote that “the definition of a Farmers Market must be simple and clear: that it must include the words ‘farmers selling directly to the public products they have produced;’ and that a farmers market must define, and make public, what it means by ‘local.’”
When I first started frequenting farmers markets that’s what I expected to find. By allowing other vendors, the whole notion of what a farmers market should be becomes a mixed message. I want to support locally grown produce, but I don’t want to stumble over the skincare booths and artisan bread vendors to get to them.
Have you noticed your local farmers market has become less about produce and more about products? And how do you decide where to shop for locally grown goods?
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about 3 years ago
We are fortunate that our local farmers’ market, 20 minutes away, features local “growers.” I can see how larger markets might run into the problem you describe.
about 3 years ago
I think it is has become a slippery slope. I like that a local honey producer sells at my town’s market. My husband is wild about the woman who sells sugar waffles she makes using her grandmother’s pizelle iron. But the bakery stuff seems questionable (but if it gets people to come, maybe it is ok?)- and I would like to know for sure exactly where the produce was grown and by whom.
about 3 years ago
I’ve certainly seen this in New Zealand. One “Farmers Market” I went to a few months ago barely had any produce at all. One stall had a few organic veggies, but the rest were gourmet olive oils and other processed items. The majority of veggies sold at most markets are almost certainly resellers, from the look of things.
about 3 years ago
We have a lot of local farmers at our growers’ market. I don’t know of any resellers, actually. But maybe that’s because we live in such a fertile valley and the growers have time to come to market?
about 3 years ago
How fascinating. Thanks for alerting us to this; never occurred to me they weren’t all farmers. Duh.
about 3 years ago
Great post. We have a very active farmer’s market in my town – Traverse City, Michigan – with an abundance of locally grown foods. I remember there being a conundrum a while back about what could and couldn’t be sold there, and it seems like they have a good mix of local products, including things like honey, soaps, garden plants, baked goods, etc., along with the fresh produce. We’re lucky in that we live in a farming community and also have a fantastic food co-op that sells many locally made foods and items.
about 3 years ago
It’s a shame that there are very few real farmers selling their own goods at farmer’s markets. How disillusioning!
about 3 years ago
I love Traverse City–and yes, you’re lucky to have so much great, locally grown produce.
about 3 years ago
Yes, as I said, I’m trying to pick and choose where I go based on how authentic the market seems. But that’s no easy task. I’m looking forward to the FMC making some sort of seal of approval available nationwide so consumers can have an easier time figuring out where the farmers really are…
about 3 years ago
There are a few markets here that feature imported fruits and veggies. I find when one booth has TOO many options, that’s the first clue. Happily, many markets are making “local” mandatory for their vendors. I try to go to those markets. Or grow my own!
about 3 years ago
I have always wondered if local farmers markets do this. I was a little annoyed that a local farm I go to for eggs, started selling Vera Bradley? I decided that I will still go there to purchase eggs and for my daughter to see the goats they raise (for food). They told me when she is old enough, I can call them and make arrangements for her to help pick the eggs! I like that I can give my daughter memories that we bought eggs from the source ( we don’t eat meat – so no goat for us!)
A good farmers market that I try to frequent has a a committee that allows farmers/vendors in and there is criteria for this. As long as they follow their criteria and are not paid off, I like this and will continue to purchase my food there. If I ever feel that it is getting out of hand with crazy vendors, I will reassess!
about 3 years ago
In NYC, anyone selling at the markets much be selling their own produce whether it be fruits and veggies, pastured meats and egg or cheeses and breads.
However, at my mother’s farmer’s market in Old Town Alexandria, there are some farmers, but there are loads of people who shamelessly sell the same factory farmed containers of strawberries as you’d find at the grocery store. I’ve found that direct questioning of the purveyors in the only way to get to the bottom of what’s what. I’ve also found that once I meet an honest farmers, he/she can point me to the other actual farmers.
about 3 years ago
Whoa, major typos, sorry!
about 3 years ago
That’s great that there will be a definition. We have one “real” market in our town that is operated by farmers and everything that is sold must be grown locally. The do have a bakery there, so that is made local. But it’s a true farmer’s market. On the other hand, there is another much larger one farther away that doesn’t have a local farmer inside and hasn’t for years, but it still refers to itself as a farmers market.
about 3 years ago
What an interesting post. I’d not given much thought to this subject because, basically, we’re spoiled rotten for farmers’ markets in the San Francisco Bay Area. There are four different ones an easy walk, bike ride, or 5-minute car ride away.
And there’s loads of locally grown produce sold by real farming folk, along with artisan preserves, honey, breads, baked goods, and even complete meals, served up street-eats style.
Still, I think you raise some very valid points in your post.
about 3 years ago
Wow, this really taps into my concerns about my own local farmer’s market; I haven’t been able to understand why some booths seem so much cheaper than others. I’ve also noticed more and more crafts booths and fewer actual fruits and veggies.
about 3 years ago
I’ve never questioned the source of items from local farmers markets. Perhaps I should.
about 3 years ago
It’s been a while since I’ve been to the FM near us – we get our produce from a small grocer, one of the very few that still exist in our neck of the woods. The last time I went there were actual farms there repped there. Now I’m curious and have to go and check. Great post.